{"id":3092,"date":"2010-09-30T15:59:34","date_gmt":"2010-09-30T19:59:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/?p=3092"},"modified":"2018-08-05T22:22:05","modified_gmt":"2018-08-06T02:22:05","slug":"thursday-september-30-2010-%e2%80%95-isle-of-rousay","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/?p=3092","title":{"rendered":"Thursday, September 30, 2010 \u2015 Isle of Rousay"},"content":{"rendered":"

So Mag\u00adnus Erlend\u00adson, when he came up from the shore that East\u00ader Mon\u00adday, towards noon, to the stone in the cen\u00adtre of the island, saw against the sun eleven men and a boy and a man with an axe in his hand who was weeping.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u2015 George Mack\u00aday Brown, Mag\u00adnus<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

After that earl Mag\u00adnus was borne to Hrossey, and buried at that Christchurch (in Bir\u00adsay) which earl Thorfinn made them make. Straight\u00adway after that a heav\u00aden\u00adly light was often seen shin\u00ading over his grave. After\u00adwards men began to call upon him often, if they were placed in dan\u00adger, and their mat\u00adter was grant\u00aded at once as they prayed. In the same way a heav\u00aden\u00adly fra\u00adgrance was often per\u00adceived at his grave, and sick men got back their health thence. Then next men made jour\u00adneys thith\u00ader both from the Orkneys and Shet\u00adland, who were in weak health, and watched at the tomb of earl Mag\u00adnus the saint, and got heal\u00ading for their ail\u00adments. But yet men did not dare to spread this abroad while earl Hacon lived. It is also so said, that those men who were most in the treach\u00adery against earl Mag\u00adnus the saint, most of them died ill and har\u00adrow\u00ading deaths. <\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u2015 The Orkneyin\u00adga Saga, <\/em>1230 AD<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Flett was an Orkney\u00adman. Eight hun\u00addred years ago there was a saint in Orkney; a polit\u00adi\u00adcal kind of saint, for he was Earl of Orkney before he became a noble\u00adman in the hier\u00adar\u00adchy of Heav\u00aden. And both because of his sanc\u00adti\u00adty and his tem\u00adpo\u00adral author\u00adi\u00adty he had many ene\u00admies, so that one day he was attacked on a small island and bru\u00adtal\u00adly done to death by half a dozen ruf\u00adfi\u00adans in the pay of a rival to the earl\u00addom. One of the ruf\u00adfi\u00adans was a cer\u00adtain Thorkel Flett, who was reward\u00aded for his share in such a notable mur\u00adder by a grant of land. And that land had pas\u00adtured enough mut\u00adton to feed his line for eight hun\u00addred sum\u00admers, and grown enough corn to make malt for their eight hun\u00addred win\u00adters of drink\u00ading; for lit\u00adtle work could be done in the dark stormy win\u00adters of the place. And the sea which bor\u00addered Thorkel Flet\u00adt\u2019s land gave gen\u00ader\u00adous\u00adly too, of cod and had\u00addock and lob\u00adsters and an occa\u00adsion\u00adal wreck; and in its turn took the lives of per\u00adhaps two in three of the men of the fam\u00adi\u00adly. For one would farm and anoth\u00ader would sail; one plant cab\u00adbages and feed his beasts and anoth\u00ader go fish\u00ading in the Firth, or ven\u00adture far to the north in whal\u00ading ships. Peter\u2019s great-grand\u00adfa\u00adther had com\u00admand\u00aded a whaler and had died with\u00adin the Arc\u00adtic Circle.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u2015 Eric Lin\u00adklater, White-Maa\u2019s Saga<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

It was my inten\u00adtion, from the begin\u00adning, to do more than vis\u00adit the famous sites on the Orkney Main\u00adland. The oth\u00ader islands beck\u00adoned. The Isle of Rousay has a par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar fas\u00adci\u00adna\u00adtion for me. I first heard of it long ago, when read an arti\u00adcle in Sci\u00aden\u00adtif\u00adic Amer\u00adi\u00adcan about the Neolith\u00adic pas\u00adsage graves of the island. This was a sem\u00adi\u00adnal study, which spear\u00adhead\u00aded a wave of new inter\u00adpre\u00adta\u00adtions of neolith\u00adic struc\u00adtures in gen\u00ader\u00adal. It point\u00aded out that the pas\u00adsage graves on Rousay could be sys\u00adtem\u00adat\u00adi\u00adcal\u00adly relat\u00aded to spe\u00adcif\u00adic patch\u00ades of arable land. You could con\u00adstruct hypo\u00adthet\u00adi\u00adcal trib\u00adal or clan ter\u00adri\u00adto\u00adries, each over\u00adlooked by a tomb that both housed the dead and act\u00aded as a ter\u00adri\u00adto\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal mark\u00ader. There were anthro\u00adpo\u00adlog\u00adi\u00adcal par\u00adal\u00adlels to this in many parts of the world. This the\u00ado\u00adret\u00adi\u00adcal recon\u00adstruc\u00adtion was not, of course, prov\u00adable, but its plau\u00adsi\u00adbil\u00adi\u00adty led to a broad range of inquiries into the rela\u00adtion of pre\u00adhis\u00adtoric struc\u00adtures and the land\u00adscapes they stand upon. These inquiries have trans\u00adformed archae\u00adol\u00ado\u00adgy in the last generation.<\/span><\/p>\n

Rousay is rich in archae\u00ado\u00adlog\u00adi\u00adcal sites. One short stretch of its west\u00adern coast is remark\u00adable in that it has, side by side, a large neolith\u00adic tomb, an Iron Age Pic\u00adtish Broch, and the remains of a Viking set\u00adtle\u00adment. It was this con\u00adcen\u00adtra\u00adtion of his\u00adto\u00adry that I wished to vis\u00adit in the lim\u00adit\u00aded time I had remain\u00ading before I was forced to return to my mun\u00addane exis\u00adtence in Toronto. <\/span><\/p>\n

Rousay is also pecu\u00adliar in being the loca\u00adtion of Orkney\u2019s only \u201cclear\u00adances\u201d and its only crofters\u2019 rebel\u00adlion. Dur\u00ading Viking rule, Orkney was under Odal law. Land was most\u00adly farmed by its own\u00aders, rather than by ten\u00adants and sub\u00adtenants. Orca\u00addi\u00adan his\u00adto\u00adri\u00adans tend to rep\u00adre\u00adsent this peri\u00adod as one of rugged inde\u00adpence and self-suf\u00adfi\u00adcien\u00adcy, though this may be an ide\u00adal\u00adized view. Scot\u00adtish rule brought feu\u00addal serf\u00addom. An aris\u00adtoc\u00adra\u00adcy of landown\u00aders \u2015 many of them absen\u00adtees who nev\u00ader set foot on the land \u2015 owned large tracts, and the work was done by ten\u00adant crofters and land\u00adless labour\u00aders, often sub\u00adject to unlim\u00adit\u00aded oblig\u00ada\u00adtions to do unpaid non-agri\u00adcul\u00adtur\u00adal work at beck and call. Crofters were assigned frag\u00admen\u00adtary patch\u00ades of land, called \u201crun\u00adrigs.\u201d Under this sys\u00adtem, the aver\u00adage Orca\u00addi\u00adan lived a life of pover\u00adty and exploita\u00adtion. The absen\u00adtee land\u00adlords syphoned away most of the islands\u2019 sur\u00adplus to finance lav\u00adish lifestyles in Scot\u00adland, or, lat\u00ader, Eng\u00adland. The crofters were left with a bare sub\u00adsis\u00adtence. A great num\u00adber were land\u00adless pau\u00adpers, with\u00adout even a ten\u00adan\u00adcy, who hired them\u00adselves out when\u00adev\u00ader there was extra work to be done, and starved when there was none.<\/span><\/p>\n

Things were even worse when land\u00adlords chose to \u201cimprove\u201d their prop\u00ader\u00adties. Rousay expe\u00adri\u00adenced the only \u201cclear\u00adance\u201d in Orkney (the more famous High\u00adland Clear\u00adances are famil\u00adiar to every read\u00ader of Cana\u00addi\u00adan school\u00adbooks). Ten\u00adants were \u201ccleared\u201d, i.e. forced off the land so that the Lairds could con\u00advert the run\u00adrig and com\u00admon lands to sheep pas\u00adture. Rousay\u2019s rul\u00ading Sin\u00adclairs had ambi\u00adtions to improve pro\u00adduc\u00adtion and \u201cmod\u00adern\u00adize\u201d their hold\u00adings by abol\u00adish\u00ading the run\u00adrigs, con\u00adsol\u00adi\u00addat\u00ading them into larg\u00ader ten\u00adan\u00adcies. The sur\u00adplus ten\u00adants were forced into the land\u00adless cat\u00ade\u00adgo\u00adry. Many fled the islands. New crops and meth\u00adods were intro\u00adduced, and for awhile the lot of the remain\u00ading ten\u00adants seemed to improve, as pro\u00adduc\u00adtiv\u00adi\u00adty did increase. But as the land pro\u00adduced more, the rents ten\u00adants payed were raised cor\u00adre\u00adspond\u00ading\u00adly. The crofters were no bet\u00adter off. When the prices of pro\u00adduce col\u00adlapsed in the mid\u00addle of the 19th cen\u00adtu\u00adry, the \u201cLit\u00adtle Gen\u00ader\u00adal\u201d, as the Sin\u00adclair Laird of the time was known, sought to recoup his loss\u00ades by rais\u00ading the rents still more, dri\u00adving the crofters to destitution. <\/span><\/p>\n

Across Scot\u00adland, a Crofters\u2019 Move\u00adment had come into being, in response to sim\u00adi\u00adlar sit\u00adu\u00ada\u00adtions. On Rousay, a rad\u00adi\u00adcal\u00adly inclined Free Church min\u00adis\u00adter and a self-edu\u00adcat\u00aded crofter gave voice to the cause. Some minor vio\u00adlence occured. A vis\u00adit\u00ading com\u00admis\u00adsion heard tes\u00adti\u00admo\u00adny, which reached sym\u00adpa\u00adthet\u00adic ears in the reform\u00ading admin\u00adis\u00adtra\u00adtion of the era, to the con\u00adster\u00adna\u00adtion of the Lit\u00adtle Gen\u00ader\u00adal. All of this is chron\u00adi\u00adcled in a fine book by William P.L. Thom\u00adson: The Lit\u00adtle Gen\u00aderal and the Rousay Crofters<\/em>. Any\u00adone who is under the impres\u00adsion that feu\u00addal tenure was a benign sys\u00adtem of rec\u00adi\u00adp\u00adro\u00adcal oblig\u00ada\u00adtions \u2015 a view that has been gain\u00ading in pop\u00adu\u00adlar\u00adi\u00adty in recent years \u2015 is well advised to read this book. It will throw some cold water on that com\u00adfort\u00ading delusion. <\/span><\/p>\n

Rousay must be reached by sea. The fer\u00adry does not leave from Kirk\u00adwall, as those for most of the oth\u00ader islands do. Instead, a small fer\u00adry serv\u00ading the islands of Rousay, Egilsay, and Wyre leaves from the micro\u00adscop\u00adic vil\u00adlage of Tingwall. My time con\u00adstraints pro\u00adhib\u00adit\u00aded walk\u00ading or hitch\u00ading to Tingwall, so I took a local bus. \u201cTingwall\u201d is one of the more obvi\u00adous\u00adly Norse place names of Orkney, as it is trans\u00adpar\u00adent\u00adly cog\u00adnate with Old Norse <\/span>thingvel\u00adlir, <\/em><\/span>mean\u00ading \u201cassem\u00adbly field.\u201d In this case, a very par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar assem\u00adbly occured here, and it was part of the most dra\u00admat\u00adic inci\u00addent recount\u00aded in the <\/span>Orkneyin\u00adga Saga<\/em><\/span>. In the year 1174, the vikings <\/span>Mag\u00adnus Erlends\u00adson and his cousin Haakon Pauls\u00adson had been joint\u00adly rul\u00ading as Earls of Orkney for nine years. But they had grown to be great rivals. A fac\u00adtion was par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar\u00adly upset by Mag\u00adnus\u2019s reli\u00adgious piety, which had led him to skimp on the expect\u00aded degree of Viking skull-split\u00adting. At a <\/span>thing <\/em><\/span>(con\u00adfer\u00adence, assem\u00adbly, par\u00adlay) held at this place, peace between them was nego\u00adti\u00adat\u00aded. Haakon and Mag\u00adnus agreed to meet again on the near\u00adby island of Egilsay, each bring\u00ading only two ships. But Haakon arrived with eight ships, and treach\u00ader\u00adous\u00adly arranged for Mag\u00adnus to be mur\u00addered as he prayed in Egilsay\u2019s church. Sub\u00adse\u00adquent\u00adly, Mag\u00adnus was seen as a Chris\u00adt\u00adian mar\u00adtyr, and made a saint. The cathe\u00addral in Kirk\u00adness is named for him.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>

Hous\u00ades (inhab\u00adit\u00aded and aban\u00addoned) at Tingwall.<\/p><\/div>\n

When I arrived, it was over\u00adcast and gray, and grow\u00ading cold. The set\u00adtle\u00adment was no more than a dozen wide\u00adly scat\u00adtered hous\u00ades. The house clos\u00adest to the fer\u00adry land\u00ading was next to the col\u00adlapsed ruins of an old\u00ader house. The sky roiled with men\u00adac\u00ading clouds, and the wind picked up. The voy\u00adage to Rousay took place in this wors\u00aden\u00ading weath\u00ader. While the cross\u00ading of the Pent\u00adland Firth in the giant Ham\u00adnavoe<\/em> was as smooth as a ball rolling across a bil\u00adliard table, this cross\u00ading was some\u00adwhat dif\u00adfer\u00adent. The fer\u00adry was tiny. The wind howled. The sea was black <\/span>\u2015<\/span> or rather, it was the colour of pho\u00adto\u00adcopi\u00ader ton\u00ader pow\u00adder. The sea was chop\u00adpy. The boat bobbed and swayed like a cork in a wash\u00ading machine. But the hand\u00adful of pas\u00adsen\u00adgers seemed unper\u00adturbed. I was a ner\u00advous land\u00adlub\u00adber, but I con\u00adclud\u00aded that, if they weren\u2019t con\u00adcerned about it, then I need\u00adn\u2019t be. <\/span><\/p>\n

But the sea has always intim\u00adi\u00addat\u00aded me. I could not look into that dark, churn\u00ading water with\u00adout imag\u00adin\u00ading its paralysing cold and the ter\u00adror it would hold for me if I was cast into it. The howl\u00ading wind, and the relent\u00adless gray\u00adness of the sky, the scream\u00ading seabirds, and the rac\u00ading white\u00adcaps all re-inforced the effect. I remem\u00adbered the mar\u00aditime charts I had looked at, which marked the seas just to west of our posi\u00adtion with phras\u00ades like \u201cwaters to be avoid\u00aded\u201d and \u201cdan\u00adger\u00adous waters.\u201d Much of the Span\u00adish Arma\u00adda had per\u00adished near here, when a pow\u00ader\u00adful storm smashed them to flinders on Orkney\u2019s reefs. The few sur\u00advivors who made it to land found only sharp rocks and high cliffs to seal their doom. Such were my child\u00adish thoughts. Doubt\u00adless, the sea-lov\u00ading Orca\u00addi\u00adans would think me a pathet\u00adic idiot, fright\u00adened by per\u00adfect\u00adly nor\u00admal and harm\u00adless weather. <\/span><\/p>\n

There is no real vil\u00adlage on Rousay. Hous\u00ades and oth\u00ader build\u00adings are scat\u00adtered along a ring road, cir\u00adcling the island. In most places, cliffs or a steep rise in land keep the road well away from the shore. The Mill\u00adners of Rousay (a fam\u00adi\u00adly famed in archae\u00adol\u00ado\u00adgy), kind\u00adly drove me to the place I want\u00aded to go. On the way, they point\u00aded out the house of the \u201cLit\u00adtle Gen\u00ader\u00adal\u201d and anoth\u00ader built by ear\u00adli\u00ader Lairds. They told me which part of the island had been affect\u00aded by the clear\u00adances. With grat\u00adi\u00adtude, I waved them good\u00adbye, as they left me to exam\u00adine the ancient sites. It was a steep descent from the road to the sites, which hugged the shore. <\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/a>

Mid\u00adhowe Broch, Rousay<\/p><\/div>\n

It was there that I expe\u00adri\u00adenced an epiphany. Now, I\u2019m gen\u00ader\u00adal\u00adly not too keen on epipha\u00adnies. Like evan\u00adgel\u00adi\u00adcal con\u00adver\u00adsions, they tend to occur with sus\u00adpi\u00adcious con\u00adve\u00adnience and to result in no per\u00adcep\u00adti\u00adble change. But I\u2019ll grant an exep\u00adtion in this case. I was alone, of course. There were no tourists on Rousay at this time of year. The three sites, close\u00adly linked in space, but not in time, were every bit as inter\u00adest\u00ading as I had hoped. At first, I wan\u00addered about, snap\u00adping pho\u00adtos, espe\u00adcial\u00adly of the Pic\u00adtish broch, which is spec\u00adtac\u00adu\u00adlar. These struc\u00adtures are char\u00adac\u00adter\u00adized by dou\u00adble walls, linked togeth\u00ader by stone butress\u00ades. This tech\u00adnique allowed the Picts to build tall, con\u00adi\u00adcal tow\u00aders. Stair\u00adcas\u00ades wound around them, giv\u00ading access to mul\u00adti\u00adple wood\u00aden inte\u00adri\u00ador plat\u00adforms. The exact pur\u00adpose of the brochs is not cer\u00adtain, but they look defen\u00adsive, some\u00adthing like cas\u00adtle-keeps or watch\u00adtow\u00aders. They were large enough to con\u00adtain sub\u00adstan\u00adtial liv\u00ading quar\u00adters. They tend to sug\u00adgest some kind of defense against sea raiders. This par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar one over\u00adlooks the entrance to the sea pas\u00adsage between Rousay and the Main\u00adland, and there\u2019s anoth\u00ader broch in a sim\u00adi\u00adlar\u00adly strate\u00adgic posi\u00adtion on the oppo\u00adsite shore.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/a>

Inte\u00adri\u00ador of Mid\u00adhowe Broch<\/p><\/div>\n

The Viking set\u00adtle\u00adment was far bet\u00adter pre\u00adserved than I expect\u00aded, with large por\u00adtions of the stone hous\u00ades still standing.<\/p>\n

Waves crashed onto the flag\u00adstone shore, with\u00adin yards of me. Sheep con\u00adfront\u00aded me, bleat\u00aded, and fled. The ruins, built thou\u00adsands of years apart from each oth\u00ader, nev\u00ader\u00adthe\u00adless seemed to con\u00adspire to be a sin\u00adgle thing, a kind of tem\u00adple to the depth of time. The pas\u00adsage grave, long ago giv\u00aden a con\u00adcrete pro\u00adtec\u00adtive bunker, seemed like it would expel some Love\u00adcraft\u00adian Yog Sothoth at any moment.<\/span><\/p>\n

After some time pok\u00ading around these ruins, a strange mood descend\u00aded upon me.<\/span><\/p>\n

I had trav\u00adelled a great dis\u00adtance, to a remote and obscure des\u00adti\u00adna\u00adtion, in part to sat\u00adis\u00adfy my his\u00adtor\u00adi\u00adcal curios\u00adi\u00adty, but chiefly to remove myself from the rou\u00adtine and <\/span>ordi\u00adnar\u00adi\u00adness<\/em><\/span> that my life was begin\u00adning to fall into. My life has sel\u00addom been com\u00adfort\u00adable, or ordi\u00adnary, and it\u2019s under\u00adstandible that, after years of wan\u00adder\u00ading and uncer\u00adtain\u00adty, I should be turn\u00ading to a more com\u00adfort\u00adable and pre\u00addictable lifestyle. But I can\u2019t help but feel ambiva\u00adlent about it, no mat\u00adter how prac\u00adti\u00adcal it might be. In addi\u00adtion, I still bore the scars of some bit\u00adter expe\u00adri\u00adences. A few years ago, some betray\u00adals and humil\u00adi\u00ada\u00adtions had dri\u00adven me to great despair, and wound\u00aded me deeply. I usu\u00adal\u00adly deal with such things by bury\u00ading myself in work. But I could\u00adn\u2019t say that there had ever been any clear res\u00ado\u00adlu\u00adtion to those wounds, or any recovery. <\/span><\/p>\n

Now I stood on a cliff, swept by a cold wind, look\u00ading over a dark ocean in the direc\u00adtion of my own, dis\u00adtant home\u00adland. Cen\u00adturies ago, men with noth\u00ading more than a flim\u00adsy wood\u00aden ship had crossed that immense dis\u00adtance. They had done it with no knowl\u00adedge of what await\u00aded them, in a world that held super\u00adnat\u00adur\u00adal ter\u00adrors that I can\u2019t con\u00adceive of. Behind me stood an assort\u00adment of stone ruins that tes\u00adti\u00adfied to fifty gen\u00ader\u00ada\u00adtions of peo\u00adple strug\u00adgling to sur\u00advive. The sky above me was huge. There are times when you feel very, very small.<\/span><\/p>\n

The land rose in a great diag\u00ado\u00adnal swoop from the crash\u00ading waves up to the high hills. Sheep milled about in the close and long dis\u00adtances. It was a dark tableau. I was cold and wet, and the taste of old bit\u00adter\u00adness swirled in me like the gulls that swooped along the cliffs. Yet this was also a moment of calm and beauty.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

The climb up to the road was steep and tir\u00ading. I antic\u00adi\u00adpat\u00aded a long walk to get to the fer\u00adry dock. My mind was scat\u00adtered, no longer capa\u00adble of trun\u00ading my expe\u00adri\u00adences and feel\u00adings into words. My feel\u00adings were, at any rate, inchoate. Did I feel com\u00adfort, relief, seren\u00adi\u00adty, rec\u00adti\u00adfi\u00adca\u00adtion, res\u00ado\u00adlu\u00adtion? No, none of those things. No solu\u00adtion had been found. Noth\u00ading had come out even. No ques\u00adtion had been answered. No con\u00adclu\u00adsion had been reached.<\/span><\/p>\n

As epipha\u00adnies go, this was not one that could be milked for a nov\u00adel, or ped\u00addled as wisdom. <\/span><\/p>\n

An islander, a young woman, turned up when I reached the road. She gave me a ride to the fer\u00adry. She did not offer, and I did not ask, her name.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

So Mag\u00adnus Erlend\u00adson, when he came up from the shore that East\u00ader Mon\u00adday, towards noon, to the stone in the cen\u00adtre of the island, saw against the sun eleven men and a boy and a man with an axe in \u2026<\/p>\n

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