{"id":3631,"date":"2011-09-05T17:46:00","date_gmt":"2011-09-05T21:46:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/?p=3631"},"modified":"2018-08-04T21:17:23","modified_gmt":"2018-08-05T01:17:23","slug":"sunday-september-5-2011-plateau-of-lost-souls","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/?p=3631","title":{"rendered":"Sunday, September 5, 2011 \u2014 Plateau of Lost Souls"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/a>The peb\u00adbles and thorns made \u201csleep\u201d into a con\u00adstant cycle of drift\u00ading off, then wak\u00ading to remove a sharp rock pok\u00ading into my ribs, or to remove a thorn that had worked its way through my sleep\u00ading bag and into my flesh. I got my revenge on Fil\u00adip by snor\u00ading loud\u00adly when I did man\u00adage to sleep, ruin\u00ading his <\/em>sleep.<\/p>\n

It was a tough but scenic climb up to Thryp\u00adti. Once above the cliffs, which were resplen\u00addent with great cav\u00aderns, crags, and even a spec\u00adtac\u00adu\u00adlar stone arch over emp\u00adty air, were came into pine for\u00adest, and a long snaking moun\u00adtain road that could have been in the Cana\u00addi\u00adan Rock\u00adies. This took the bet\u00adter part of the morning.<\/p>\n

Around Thryp\u00adti there are farmed ter\u00adraces, just like in the low\u00adlands, and also ample graz\u00ading for sheep and goats. There are even vine\u00adyards. It\u2019s obvi\u00adous that the Eti\u00adoc\u00adre\u00adtans could have found suf\u00adfi\u00adcient resources to sus\u00adtain them in their long, sad cen\u00adturies of exile. There\u2019s even a tav\u00ader\u00adna in the vil\u00adlage, and we had some omelettes for lunch. But the oth\u00ader \u201croads\u201d marked on the map appeared to be more fic\u00adtion that fact, and we need\u00aded to get to our reserved room on the oth\u00ader side of Crete by evening. So we decid\u00aded to hitch\u00adhike back the way we came and from thence to the south coast at Etiapetra.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Once in Eti\u00ada\u00adpe\u00adtra, we deter\u00admined that the only way to get across to our des\u00adti\u00adna\u00adtion at Agia Pav\u00adlos was to return to Irak\u00adlion and find a bus going south\u00adwest. Even then, we could find noth\u00ading that would get us clos\u00ader than forty kilo\u00adme\u00adters from our tar\u00adget. We hitch\u00adhiked the rest, get\u00adting lucky with a sin\u00adgle ride, espe\u00adcial\u00adly since Agios Pav\u00adlos is twelve wind\u00ading kilo\u00adme\u00adters off the main road across a range of hills.<\/p>\n

We arrived at a small cove on the the south\u00adern coast. A lit\u00adtle hotel serv\u00ading the more adven\u00adtur\u00adous, soli\u00adtude-seek\u00ading trav\u00adel\u00aders. A civ\u00adi\u00adlized, cloth\u00ading option\u00adal beach. We unwound for awhile on the cool, windy patio, look\u00ading at the moon\u00adlight sparkle on the dark Mediterranean.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The peb\u00adbles and thorns made \u201csleep\u201d into a con\u00adstant cycle of drift\u00ading off, then wak\u00ading to remove a sharp rock pok\u00ading into my ribs, or to remove a thorn that had worked its way through my sleep\u00ading bag and into \u2026<\/p>\n

Read more \u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"wp_typography_post_enhancements_disabled":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,927],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3631","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-a-blog","category-ap-blog-2011"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3631","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3631"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3631\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3761,"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3631\/revisions\/3761"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3631"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3631"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.philpaine.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3631"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}