Thursday, August 24, 2006 — Moscow Nights on the Subway

One of those lit­tle moments of beau­ty. I was in the Finch sub­way sta­tion. There are musi­cians who busk in many of the sta­tions. In this case, it was an old man with an accor­dion. He struck up a few chords, instant­ly famil­iar to me. And to some­one else. A mid­dle-aged Asian woman, walk­ing by, also rec­og­nized what was com­ing, and imme­di­ate­ly began to sing. It was a trained voice, very beau­ti­ful. She sang, in Russ­ian, Vasi­ly Soloviev-Sedoi’s pop­u­lar song, Подмосковные Вечера. Now, most Russ­ian songs are sad and heart-tug­ging, but “Moscow Nights” is that, squared and cubed. It comes off best with a deep male voice — the most famous ver­sion is sung by Vladimir Troshin. But this woman was very effec­tive. By the time she was fin­ished, the whole, bustling mass of com­muters in the hall that led from the bus plat­forms to the trains was trans­fixed. Teenagers, who would nor­mal­ly turn up their iPods as they trudged obliv­i­ous­ly past any busker, were stop­ping to drop coins into the accordionist’s hat. The woman start­ed to dance as she sang. The crowd was mes­mer­ized. When the song end­ed, with moth­ers, chil­dren, busi­ness­men, stu­dents, and sub­way work­ers applaud­ing, the accor­dion­ists did not skip a beat, and launched imme­di­ate­ly into anoth­er song. Some opera tune, vague­ly famil­iar to me, but which I could not iden­ti­fy. The woman jumped into it instant­ly, singing the full aria in Ital­ian. More applause. Again, only a second’s hia­tus, and they were doing Bésame mucho, a song so corny that nor­mal­ly it’s unbear­able. But she gave it dignity.

Three songs, and then she obvi­ous­ly had to get to work, or what­ev­er. I spoke to her for a moment as we head­ed for the trains. Her accent was Kore­an. Did she speak Russ­ian? No, she said, she had mere­ly mem­o­rized the words pho­net­i­cal­ly. And she dis­ap­peared, name­less, with her gro­cery bags, down a crowd­ed esca­la­tor into the sil­ver cars that sped under the earth.

Подмосковные Вечера (Pod­moskovnye Vechera)
[“Moscow Nights”, some­times “Mid­night in Moscow” or “Nights on the Edge of Moscow”]

Не слышны в саду даже шорохи,
Всё здесь замерло до утра.
Если б знали вы, как мне дороги
Подмосковные вечера.

Речка движется и не движется,
Вся из лунного серебра.
Песня слышится и не слышится
В эти тихие вечера.

Что ж бы, милая, смотришь искоса,
Низко голову наклоняя?
Трудно высказать и не высказать
Всё, что на сердце у меня.

А рассвет уже всё заметнее.
Так, пожалуйста, будь добра.
Не забудь и ты эти летние
Подмосковные вечера.

Even whis­pers aren’t heard in the garden,
Every­thing has died down till morning.
If you only knew how dear to me
Are these Moscow nights.

The riv­er moves, unmoving,
All in sil­ver moonlight.
A song is heard, yet unheard,
In these silent nights.

Why do you, dear, look askance,
With your head low­ered so?
It is hard to express, and hard to hold back,
Every­thing that my heart holds.

But the dawn’s becom­ing ever brighter.
So please, just be good.
Don’t you, too, forget
These sum­mer, Moscow nights.

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