14560. (Henry David Thoreau) A Yankee In Canada [ed. Maynard Gertler] (Henry David Thoreau) Thoreau: Walden and Other Writings [ed. Joseph Krutch]

06-01-18 READ 14560. (Henry David Thoreau) A Yankee In CanadaThore­au is one of those peo­ple that you might read as a teenag­er, then keep in the back of your mind for the rest of your life. But do you get around to re-read­ing him lat­er in life? One thing that strikes me now, on reread­ing him, is how much he gets dis­tort­ed by false mem­o­ry. How many peo­ple have decid­ed that the ide­al life is on a farm, and talk about Thore­au and “sim­plic­i­ty”? But for the actu­al Thore­au, farm life was the com­plex rat race he was flee­ing from! He com­plained that every­one he knew was car­ry­ing a barn on their back. One man’s sim­plic­ity is anoth­er man’s 1984, I sup­pose. The econ­o­mist John Ken­neth Gal­braith who had grown up on one of those dour Scot­tish-Cana­di­an farms in south­ern Ontario once explained that after milk­ing cows with frozen teats on sub­zero morn­ings and bail­ing hay by hand, noth­ing he ever did as an adult was clas­si­fi­able as work, and he would much rather be a pro­fes­sor than go back to that sim­plic­ity, thanky­ou very much. I did my own fair share of farm work, and even with more mod­ern machin­ery, I know exact­ly what he meant. Try stand­ing up to your knees in half frozen sheep shit while cold driz­zle soaks into you, for an entire day, while you wres­tle fierce­ly kick­ing ani­mals to the ground, one after anoth­er. Sim­plic­ity, indeed.

On reread­ing, I found Walden and Civ­il Dis­obe­di­ence to be pret­ty much as I remem­bered them. Thore­au made it clear in Walden that he was mak­ing an exper­i­ment in self-dis­ci­pline, not design­ing a blue­print for every­one to live by. He had enough sense to know that if every­one tried to live off the beans in their back­yard, the result would be grind­ing medieval pover­ty, not inde­pen­dence. He was not going off to live in a cave. He walked to town every day to see his friends, and he even went off on lengthy jaunts of tourism.

His trav­el jour­nals con­tain some of his most enter­tain­ing writ­ing. His prose style is remark­ably mod­ern-sound­ing for the 1850s. His obser­va­tion of sen­sory detail was also unusu­al for the peri­od. A read­er hav­ing no appro­pri­ate clues might place the prose style at cir­ca 1910. “A Yan­kee In Cana­da” describes the Charlevoix region north of Que­bec City, a place I did a few hun­dred kliks of walk­a­bout in, with Fil­ip Marek. Thore­au spoke French rea­son­ably well (he was of Chan­nel Island ances­try), and asked ques­tions every­where. He was not only pre-occu­pied with nature, which describes with pre­ci­sion, but with eco­nomic and social facts as well. For exam­ple, he not­ed that the vot­ing fran­chise was wider in Cana­da East than in New Eng­land, that the British still treat­ed Que­bec as a gar­ri­son town (it is still 17 years before Con­fed­er­a­tion), and which vari­eties of fruits and cloth were import­ed and exported.

One thing he got iron­i­cally wrong. He noticed a large num­ber of stone Church­es, imag­in­ing them to be a lega­cy of Nor­mandy. But, in fact, most of the orig­i­nal church­es of Que­bec had been made of wood, in a sim­ple style impro­vised by the Habi­tants. Over the next two cen­turies, most of these church­es suc­cumbed to the inevitable fires, and only a hand­ful of them sur­vive today on the Ile d’Orleans. But the style sur­vived. The Eng­lish set­tlers of New Eng­land, also com­ing from a land of stone church­es, copied the Que­bec wood­en church­es, per­fect­ing them into the dis­tinc­tive white Con­gre­ga­tional jew­els that still make many New Eng­land vil­lages sub­limely beau­ti­ful. The pret­ty stone and tin-roofed church­es that Thore­au saw along the St. Lawrence were most­ly built short­ly before he saw then.. They are usu­ally paint­ed white in the trim­mings, and built of pale gray stone, so that a Que­bec vil­lage has a visu­al charm almost as strik­ing as a Ver­mont one, but the effect is dif­fer­ent. The “strip vil­lage” dom­i­nates in Que­bec, fol­low­ing river­banks, evolved from farm lots that are nar­row on the roads, but extend for miles back into the for­est. This con­fig­u­ra­tion is crit­i­cal in harsh win­ters, when the walk­ing time to the near­est neigh­bour can deter­mine life or death. By con­trast, New Eng­land vil­lages focus on a square, and are much more com­pact, but out­ly­ing farms must be ser­viced by more road mileage. He was, of course, fas­ci­nated by the Catholi­cism in Cana­da, as any New Eng­lan­der would be, but he was not hos­tile. He was equal­ly fas­ci­nated by the omnipresent kilt­ed Scots High­landers, hav­ing appar­ently nev­er seen so many bare male legs.

But Thoreau’s prose is won­der­ful, and you can just pic­ture your­self hav­ing a cheer­ful after­noon pok­ing around in the woods with him. He claimed to have been a hap­py man, and per­haps he wasn’t lying.

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