Thursday, June 19, 2008 — Omlowen dha bos!

While I’ve been silenced by the demands of work, my friend Steve Muhlberg­er has become more vol­u­ble, with longer and more detailed blog entries, inspired by his Euro­pean trav­els. These can be read at Muhlberg­er’s Ear­ly His­to­ry. Among them are items on Latvia, Medieval robots, the enchant­i­ng Cor­nish land­scape, the truth about the Cor­nish pastie, and a par­tic­u­lar­ly fine one on the lega­cy of Cor­nish tin mines. The dis­cus­sion of the dis­tinc­tive pride of the min­ers remind­ed me of a medieval min­ing town of Kut­ná Hora I vis­it­ed in Czech Repub­lic. There, the goth­ic Church of St. Bar­bara (Chrám svaté Bar­bo­ry) is dec­o­rat­ed with won­der­ful fres­coes that depict the dai­ly life and work of min­ers and minters. The min­ers had con­sid­er­able polit­i­cal and social pow­er and inde­pen­dence, and expressed it in this extra­or­di­nary art.

Corn­wal­l’s inde­pen­dent spir­it dur­ing the mid­dle ages was also expressed artis­ti­cal­ly, in the form of a unique dra­mat­ic lit­er­a­ture, some of which sur­vives. The Cor­nish-lan­guage plays were per­formed in cir­cu­lar open-air amp­ithe­atres, called Plen-an-gwary, earth­en embank­ments sur­round­ing a green. There were hun­dreds of them, but only two sur­vive. One, at St. Just, has mutat­ed into a vil­lage com­mon, but the one at St.Piran (not sign­post­ed, but it is 1.2km along the B3285 from Goon­hav­ern, towards Per­ran­porth, on the north side of the road, just off a small lane oppo­site a pink house) is in its orig­i­nal form, after local ini­tia­tive cleared away the over­growth of brush. The Bew­nans Meri­asek, a dra­ma of the life of a Cor­nish saint, has been suc­cess­ful­ly per­formed there, as well as bardic fes­ti­vals. Anoth­er Cor­nish clas­sic, the Ordi­na­lia, has been per­formed at St. Just. Steve did­n’t stum­ble on these, but he writes with del­i­cate feel­ing about many oth­er sights.

One aspect of Cor­nish his­to­ry that is large­ly for­got­ten is the fact that it suf­fered heav­i­ly from slave raids in the sev­en­teenth and eigh­teenth cen­turies. This is described in Giles Mil­ton’s White Gold, reviewed on my read­ing page.

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